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Lhakpa Ri (7045 meters/23113 feet) (Xang Dong Feng) mountaineering expedition gives you an impeccable mountain climbing experience amidst the richly varied landscape. Lhakpa Ri, towering over Tibet mountain range at an elevation of 7045 meters / 23113 feet, Divides the upper East Rongbuk glacier and upper Kharta glacier. It lies in proximity to mighty Mt Everest boasting mesmerizing sights of Nyonno Ri range in eastern Tibet, the north faces of Chomolonzo, Makalu and Pethangtse, Shartse, Kangshung (east) face of Everest, east face of Lhotse, the north east ridge of Everest, the North Col, Changtse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma as stunning backdrops.
Lhakpa Ri is a superb objective which should appeal to climbers looking for a 7000m summit in a famous location, in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers.
The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals. The most climbable 7000m peak in the world!
Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7000m peak in the world.
Climbing Lhakpa Ri involves a similar itinerary to the initial phase of an expedition to the North Ridge of Everest. Then there is an incredible journey from Kathmandu through Tibet, along the Friendship Highway before turning south to the Rongbuk Valley below Everest. We spend time acclimatizing at base camp before making the two-day hike to advance base camp (ABC), at about 6300m.
The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for 600m, which steepness at mid-height to around 30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, we turn south and follow the snow ridge to the summit.
After returning to base camp, we complete the remainder of the Friendship Highway, driving along the northern side of the Himalaya range, again with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and numerous other peaks. The road eventually descends to the Friendship Bridge, where we cross into Nepal and continue to Kathmandu.