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Shishapangma Expedition - 45 days
Shishapangma Expedition. 8012 meters Tibet

Shishapangma is the 14th highest mountain in the world. The altitude at the peak ranges from 8012m to 8046m. The mountain has two summits. The commonly climbed Central summit (8012m).

Before the Chinese opened Tibet to western mountaineers in 1970, little was known about Shishapangma. The only 8000m peak to lie entirely in Tibet, it lies tantalizingly close to the Nepalese border, shrouded behind the great, but less high, board peaks of Langtang.

It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that its ascent the North-Western Ridge presents any great difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straight-forward 8,000m climbs and its summit is frequently achieved. Regarded as a "holy" mountain by the local Tibetan population, and lying on the route to Mt. Kailash, Shishapangma continues to baffle us. Historians cannot fathom her names - Shishapangma, Xizabangma, Gosainthan, and surveyors seem unable to fix her height ( anything from 8,012m to 8,046m ) Even the first ascent by the Chinese in 1964 is questioned, due to the lack of photographic evidence and the fact that the summit ridge sports several subsidiary "summits". Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway.

The North West normal route to Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu and Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.

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Route

The North West normal route to Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.



Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.



Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the northwest ridge.



Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.



Some times the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.

Trip Facts

Country: Tibet

Region: Shishapangma-Tibet

Activities: Mountain Expedition

Duration: 45 Days

Max. Altitude: 8012 m.

Difficulty:

Group Size: 2-32

Season: April-May, Aug-Oct

Trip Map

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  • Itinerary
  • Detail Itinearay
  • Cost Detail
  • Departure Dates
  • Gallery
  • Testimonials
Day 01 - Arrive Kathmandu
Day 02 - Kathmandu
Day 03 - Drive to Kodari and to Zhangmu- 2300 m.
Day 04 - Drive to Nyalam 3600m.
Day 05 - Acclimatisation at Nyalam
Day 06 - Drive to Tingri (4340m.)
Day 07 - Acclimatise at Tingri (4340m.)
Day 08 - Arrive Shishapangma Base Camp
Day 09-10 - Base camp preparation
Day 11 - Move to Advanced Base Camp
Day 12-37 - Climbing Period Shishapangama 8012 meters.
Day 38 - Lower Chinese Base Camp
Day 39 - Drive via Tingri to Zhangmu
Day 40 - Drive to Kathmandu
Day 41 - At leisure in Kathmandu
Day 42 - Departure from Kathmandu.
Day 01 - Arrive Kathmandu

On your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be received by representative of Independent Himalayan Adventure and transferred to your Hotel. Short briefing and final procedure about the entire trip.

Rest of the day suggested you to finalize your equipments.

Day 02 - Kathmandu

A free day in Kathmandu. Relaxation then as usual there will be extensive preparations, packing bags, equipment at hotel, ready for the start the following day. We suggest you to leave your unnecessary belongings which you may not need during the expedition. Pack and lock all bags and leave at the Hotel Store.

Day 03 - Drive to Kodari and to Zhangmu- 2300 m.

Early in the morning we take a bus drive along the Friendship - Highway to Zhangmu at the Nepal-Tibet border. The journey normally may take about 5 to 6 hours depending on the road condition, and sometime likely the landslides that could long our journey time.
We cross Friendship Bridge and ahead to Zhangmu (2300 meters) for our night stop.

Day 04 - Drive to Nyalam 3600m.

Our jeeps and trucks move their way up the precipitous mountain road - "the road to hell".
The journey to Nyalam is not too long, and gives us some opportunity to acclimatise.

Day 05 - Acclimatisation at Nyalam

Rest Day at Nyalam for acclimatisation.

Day 06 - Drive to Tingri (4340m.)

A spectacular day as we reach up to 5000 meters elevation. If the weather is clear the views from this road are absolutely superb.
After Arrive in Tingri we get our first views of the lonely mountains across the grassy plains.

Day 07 - Acclimatise at Tingri (4340m.)

Rest day at Tingri for Acclimatisation.

Day 08 - Arrive Shishapangma Base Camp

Magnificent views of Shishapangma and many other mountains make todays road journey an unforgettable one.
We will arrive at base camp (5,000m). This is situated close to the Yambughangala River, which drains the north side of Shishapangma.

Day 09-10 - Base camp preparation

Our first two days at base camp are spent preparing our equipment and organising loads for the yaks. These are also important days for our acclimatisation, as we will all feel the effects of living at 5000 metres and we need to be in good shape for the long route to advance base camp.

Day 11 - Move to Advanced Base Camp

After loading up the yaks with all of our equipment we set off with them on around 20 kilometres/ 12 miles trek to advance base camp (ABC). Initially we follow a jeep track to a plateau above the river and then the west bank of the valley to ABC near the snout of the Yambughangala Glacier (5,600m).
This is in a very impressive situation, with the giant white pinnacles of the glacier leading up the valley to Shishapangma.
Here we unload the yaks and set up the camp, which is the take-off point for the climb. From here the Sherpas have to do most of the load carrying.

Day 12-37 - Climbing Period Shishapangama 8012 meters.

Above ABC we will place two or three camps depending on conditions. The climb starts with a long traverse leading to a large camping area at 6400m. From here we traverse further, gaining a lot of height, to reach the shoulder of the mountain and camp 2 (7,000m).

All of the climbing is on scree or snow and presents little difficulty. The North-West Ridge is easily reachable from camp 2, although it may involve snow and ice climbing up to 50 steep. Fixed ropes are placed on all steep/crevassed sections. If a high camp is required, it is placed according to the prevailing conditions.

The summit ridge is very long and it is usual to take a rising diagonal line across the snow slope below it to reach the ridge as close to the summit as possible. The West Summit (8012m) of Shishapangma is quicker to reach than the main summit and is the usual point reached by 'summiteers'. Plenty of time has been allowed in case of bad weather and slow acclimatisation. We intend to have enough time at the end of the expedition to make a complete withdrawal from the mountain, removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to ABC.

Day 38 - Lower Chinese Base Camp

All the expedition members and Sherpas will have to back at the Lower Chinese Base Camp where our truck and bus transport will be waiting for us. Everything will be packed into the plastic drums and Kitbags.

Day 39 - Drive via Tingri to Zhangmu

Loading all our equipment onto Chinese truck we drive to the Zhangmu via Tingri.

Day 40 - Drive to Kathmandu

Deive to the border which we cross and descend to Kodari where we obtain our Nepalese visas. and we then drive back to Kathmandu.
This is a spectacular and enjoyable journey down the Sun Kosi river valley. Some members may wish to enjoy the scenery from the roof of the bus. We should arrive into Kathmandu in the early afternoon, assuming there are no landslides to delay the journey.

Day 41 - At leisure in Kathmandu

Leisure day in Kathmandu.Time for a relaxation and souveniour. celebrate a long and exciting expedition adventure.

Day 42 - Departure from Kathmandu.

If you did not finished your shopping previously, you can do some moring shopping.
You will then transferred to the International airport with Independent Himalayan Adventure's representative for for onward journey.

Price List
Price List will be available soon.
Cost

Cost Includes :

  • Four (4) Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast at standard Hotel.
  • Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our agency itself.
  • Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew.
  • Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri (twin share bed, breakfast, Lunch, dinner).
  • Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand).
  • Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent.
  • Per person's (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak from Base Camp till to the-ABC.
  • Per person's (20 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to ABC to the BC.
  • Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment.
  • Tibet Visa & Travel permit, Liaison officer & Interpreter.
  • Nepalese crew's insurance.
  • Emergency oxygen for ABC -but if you use pay it USD 300.
  • Farewell dinner.

Cost Excludes:

  • Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
  • Meals in Kathmandu other than breakfast.
  • Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  • Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature Expenses.
  • Medical and rescue insurance.
  • Personal Climbing equipment.
  • Bar bills & Beverage.
  • Medicine and first aid expenses.
  • Walkie-Talkie, satllite phone.
  • Any extra cost arose due to natural calamities, political disturbance and delay arrival etc.

Note:

  • After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come for expedition crews.

If Extra service required:

  • Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400
  • Mask & Regular: US$ 600
  • Satellite phone: US$ 700 per set (Personal use from climber)
  • Film Permit: US$ 20000 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
  • Duty Jeep for whole time: US$ 4000
  • Rescue Jeep: US$ 700 Per Jeep

 

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Dates will be available soon.
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Ama Dablam Expedition Autumn 2017
Hotel Reservation in Nepal

Nepal Travel and Tour Pvt. Ltd.
Independent Himalayan Adventure

GPO Box: 3486
Narshing Chowk, Thamel,
Kathamndu, Nepal
Tel: +977 - 1 - 424 9214
Mobile: +977 - 98510 53909
Email: holiday @ nepaltravelandtour.com
independent @ mail.com.np
Url: www.nepaltravelandtour.com

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